For a long time, cosmetics imported into Switzerland benefited from regulatory relief under the Cassis de Dijon principle. This mechanism allowed products that were legally marketed in a European Union (EU) country to be sold in Switzerland without needing to conform to local standards – except where there is a risk to public health.
Since May 1, 2017, Switzerland has implemented significant changes to the Cassis de Dijon framework, particularly concerning furocoumarins – substances naturally found in certain essential oils used in perfumery. Due to their potential phototoxic effects, their use is now strictly regulated in all cosmetic products that may be exposed to sunlight. This regulatory shift is forcing industry stakeholders, including both manufacturers and importers, to reassess compliance, especially for scented products.
Defining furocoumarins
Furocoumarins (also known as psoralens) are chemical compounds naturally present in various plants, including bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, fig, celery and parsley. When used in essential oils, these substances can cause adverse skin reactions, such as burns, pigment spots and even genotoxic effects when exposed to UVA radiation.
In cosmetics, furocoumarins are closely monitored because they are frequently found in perfumes, essential oils and creams that are directly applied to the skin and potentially exposed to sunlight.
Regulatory developments in Switzerland: specific restrictions from 2026
According to Annex II of the European regulation and the Swiss OPC, furocoumarins are prohibited by default in cosmetic products as follows:
| Substance | Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Union | Cosmetics Ordinance (OPC), in force since 2017 |
| Furocoumarins | Prohibited, except in the case of normal content in natural species. In sunscreen and tanning products, the concentration of furocoumarins must be less than 1 mg/kg | Prohibited in cosmetics that may be exposed to the sun at a concentration in the final product ≥ 1 mg/kg (1 ppm) |
The restrictions imposed by the Swiss OPC, in effect since May 1, 2017, apply to a broad range of products, including:
- Creams, lotions, oils and gels for the skin
- Lip care products
- Aftershave products
- Self-tanners and sunscreens
From 2026, with the full termination of the Cassis de Dijon principle, Swiss regulation will extend to a wider range of cosmetics, regardless of whether they are manufactured domestically or imported. This marks a significant departure from EU regulations, which restrict such limitations only to sun care products and self-tanners.
Health Canada is proposing similar restrictions through its Cosmetics Ingredient Hotlist. The revision would clarify that furocoumarins (excluding naturally occurring forms in plant extracts) must not be intentionally added to cosmetics. Only trace amounts from natural extracts would be permitted, with the maximum concentration limit applying to all leave-on products, not just sun-tanning items, due to potential UVA exposure.
What you need to remember
| Element | Detail |
| Regulation | Cosmetics Ordinance (OPC)/Regulation EC 1223/2009 |
| Status of furocoumarins | Prohibited with limited exceptions |
| Concentration limits | 1 ppm (products exposed to the sun) |
| Affected products | Perfumes, creams, oils, lip care, sunscreens and self-tanners |
| Risks | Phototoxicity, genotoxic effects |
| SGS expertise | Specialized analysis developed since 2018 |
Enhanced surveillance: Our expertise since 2018
In this changing regulatory landscape, we have, through our Rouen laboratory in France, established ourselves as a key player in the analysis of regulated substances and furocoumarins.
Since 2018, the Rouen laboratory has developed specialized expertise in the quantification of furocoumarins, particularly in complex matrices such as perfumes, essential oils, sunscreens and daytime skincare products.
Toward stricter regulations
The Federal Food Safety and Veterinary Office (FSVO) regularly updates the list of restricted substances, making ongoing regulatory monitoring essential.
Additionally, further restrictions are expected in Switzerland. As of 2025, the Ordinance on Chemical Risk Reduction (ORRChem) will prohibit the sale of three cyclic siloxanes (D4, D5 and D6) in cosmetic products, due to their potentially harmful effects on human health and the environment.
Conclusion
The evolution of Swiss regulations on furocoumarins brings an end to the regulatory flexibility once provided by the Cassis de Dijon principle. It now imposes strict requirements aimed at protecting consumer health.
With our recognized expertise, we support companies in analyzing and ensuring compliance of their cosmetic products with Swiss regulations – a mark of reliability in a continuously evolving sector.
Need insights from our experts?
Audrey GUIBET
SGS France – Health & Nutrition Division
Strategical Expert Cosmetics & Personal Care
t: +33 (0) 6 08 32 27 85
Official sources
Cosmetics Ordinance (Cosmetics Ordinance) – SR 817.023.31
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 – Annex II
Federal Office for Food Safety (FSVO)
About SGS
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