Launch of ISO 23698: 2024 HDRS – A Breakthrough Sunscreen Testing Method

We are pleased to announce that we have launched ISO 23698:2024 Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS), a breakthrough test method for sunscreens that evaluates sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and critical wavelength.

While the HDRS method was published in December 2024 as an international sunscreen standard, we have contributed over five years of hands-on experience in its development –   from ring test conception to execution to validation.

"SGS's technical contributions signify our company's commitment to safety, innovation and sustainability when it comes to testing for consumer products that ultimately impact people," said Amol Dev, Head of Cosmetics and Personal Care at SGS in North America. "Consumers and brands want assurance that the products they're using or developing are, in fact, offering the level of protection claimed. Due to recent concerns with test results in the industry, SGS has seen an uptake in testing requests for sunscreen and skincare products with SPF claims."

Meeting regulatory and consumer expectations

Regulatory bodies require that sunscreen testing be carried out as primary evidence to substantiate claims of product safety and effectiveness. For example, the US FDA mandates the testing of sunscreen products, regulating them as over-the-counter drugs. Laboratory testing must validate SPF, ensure broad-spectrum protection against UVA/UVB rays and confirm water resistance claims.

Consumers are also increasingly interested in products that incorporate SPF and UV protection for skin health and to help slow the visible signs of aging. Additionally, the desire for ethically produced personal care products is on the rise.

"This advancement in offering HDRS further aligns SGS with both regulatory and consumer demands that are driving the need for quick, reliable, and ethical testing," continued Dev. "As a trusted testing partner, the onus is on SGS lab teams to ensure that the data being provided to cosmetics and personal care brands and manufacturers is accurate. We operate with the mindset that consumers and governments rely on our data to make informed decisions."

What makes HDRS different from traditional SPF testing

HDRS is a non-invasive test that combines both in vivo and in vitro processes to obtain a comprehensive understanding of efficacy. Through a non-erythemal (non-redness-inducing) optical assessment, it eliminates the need to induce erythema and pigmentation in subjects. In vitro measurements are fused with in vivo assessments to deliver instantaneous UVA-PF measurements, including a photostability assessment. In addition to being safer, HDRS offers faster turnaround times and is more cost effective.

Conventional in vivo sunscreen testing methods rely on exposing the skin to UV radiation to intentionally induce redness or pigmentation. While widely used and standardized, these methods raise ethical concerns. Meanwhile, fully validated in vitro alternatives that avoid human testing do not capture the essential factor of direct human skin exposure.

Due to these limitations, HDRS was evaluated as an alternative test method by the international ALT-SPF Consortium, initiated by ISO/TC 217 in 2019. Along with other international organizations, we actively participated in the working group which resulted in publication of the new ISO 23698 international sunscreen standard.

Launch your sunscreen products with confidence

At SGS, we help sunscreen brands ensure their products are safe, effective and globally compliant through our accredited testing services. From SPF and UVA verification to reef-safe and blue light protection assessments, we offer tailored solutions that meet evolving consumer and regulatory demands. With our global reach and scientific expertise, we empower brands to launch with confidence and credibility.

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